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An induction zone that ignores a pan is most often reacting to the pan, not failing. The zone only heats cookware that a magnet will stick to, and the pan has to be flat, centered, and large enough for that zone. Test one known magnetic pan first, and book cooktop repair if a good pan still gets no heat or the glass is cracked.
Borrow a fridge magnet. If it will not stick to the pan bottom, the zone is supposed to ignore that pan. Aluminum and copper that fail the magnet sit there looking expensive and do nothing. That is the design, not a failed Kenmore inverter.
A cutout cooktop is not a range. Book cooktop repair for glass in a counter. Burners on a chassis are range repair.
| Symptom | What it can point to | What you can safely check |
|---|---|---|
| Zone flashes and shuts off with a pan on it | The pan is not being detected | Magnet test on the pan base, then center it on the zone |
| Pan heats weakly or not at all, magnet sticks | Warped base or a pan too small for the zone | Try a flat pan that covers the marked zone |
| Zone ignores every pan, including a magnetic one | Detection or power question | Dry the glass, check the control lock in the booklet, then book |
| Cracked or chipped glass | Stop-use | Do not cook, note the cutout label, book |
How do you test whether a pan works on induction?
Hold a magnet to the pan bottom. If it sticks and the pan is flat, centered, and large enough for the zone, the zone should detect it.
This page does not publish an approved-pan brand list. Ten bad pans is not a better experiment than one good one.
What does an induction zone do when it cannot see a pan?
The use-and-care guide for one Kenmore induction range says that when a zone is switched on and no cookware is detected, the display flashes the last power level. Improper cookware may not heat at all, and if the problem is not corrected, the zone turns itself off after three minutes. That behavior is a design feature, so a zone that shuts itself off with a poor pan is working as intended. Zones also do not glow red, and the glass can stay hot from residual heat, so check by hand only when the guide says it is safe.
A single good pan is also a cleaner test than a pile of unknown ones. Pick a flat, heavy-bottomed skillet that a magnet grips firmly, center it on the zone you are testing, and try a lower power level first. Compare that against the zone’s marked outline before you draw any conclusion.
- Magnet on the pan bottom — one known-good magnetic skillet beats ten mystery pans
- Flat enough to sit still — a warped wok on a flat zone may never be seen
- Coverage — a tiny pan on a large zone may never register
Why will an induction zone not heat my pan?
The same guide lists the usual reasons a zone will not heat: a non-magnetic base, a pan that is not centered, a pan too small for the zone, a warped or curved bottom, or a pan resting on the cooktop edge. It recommends cookware that is flat, makes full contact with the glass, and does not touch the metal edges, and a pan that does not extend more than half an inch past the longer lines for the zone. It also notes that not all stainless steel cookware is magnetic, so a pan that looks like steel can still fail the magnet test.
The guide’s minimum pan size is marked in the cooktop graphics, so look for those lines near each zone.
When last year’s pan stopped working
A new pan, a warped bottom, or a lock setting can appear overnight. Hardware can also fail. The magnet test still comes first. Flickering touch keys with a good pan: copy any code, dry the glass, check a control lock in the booklet, then book if it continues.
Buzzing, boil-dry, and other things to know
Some noise from cookware on an induction zone is ordinary. A pan that boils dry is not, and the guide says never to let cookware boil dry. The guide also cautions that people with pacemakers should be careful near an induction cooktop because of the magnetic field, and suggests they ask their physician. These are use notes, not repair steps, but they are part of what the manual says and worth knowing before you decide a zone has failed.
A control that seems to react on its own can be a wet or soiled glass surface, so wipe the cooktop dry and clear before testing again. If your booklet describes a control lock, confirm it is off. If the keys still flicker with the glass dry, copy any display code and book.
What should you do if the cooktop glass is cracked?
Stop cooking. Do not open inverter compartments. Photograph the cutout label and book cooktop repair. Buzz from some cookware can be ordinary. Buzz plus no heat is still a detection or power question, not a reason to ignore a crack.
Cookware that works fine on a gas or radiant top may fail here. A lightweight aluminum pan, a copper-bottom pan, or a glass pan will not respond, no matter how clean or new it is.
Common questions
Why does my induction cooktop not recognize my pan?
Most often the pan base is not magnetic, is warped, is off center, or is smaller than the zone’s minimum. Test one pan with a magnet and place it flat in the middle of the zone.
Do all stainless steel pans work on induction?
No. The Kenmore guide says not all stainless steel cookware is magnetic. If a magnet sticks to the base, the pan is suitable; if it does not, it will not heat.
What if a magnetic pan still gets no heat?
Dry the glass, check whether the booklet describes a control lock, and try a second flat magnetic pan. If the zone still gives nothing, book cooktop repair and mention the display behavior.
If a magnetic, flat pan the zone can see still produces no heat, the experiment is over. Book cooktop repair. Do not treat the glass as a bargaining chip.